iwannabetheguy1980's build

Build forum for the fully 3D-printed Koenigsegg Agera RS in scale 1/10
iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:13 am

the clear parts, its a nightmare.....

the way i did it....

1) you need rubber gloves. because it keeps you from getting your finger print oil all over everything. wear the gloves the entire time
there are also Cotton gloves designed for this purpose tamiya sells them or you might find them on amazon. the oils from your fingers cause the glue to react and fog up everything.

2) cut out the clear plastic sheet to the pattern for the headlight. the pattern is directional and you have to flip it around a few times to find the correct fitment, and then mirror it for the other headlight(Right and left)

3) clean everything with IPA(isopropyl alcohol) well to remove oils.

4) use a micromesh cloth that will not scratch the soft clear plastic and mop everything clean lint free and scratch free.

5) I used a wood carver/burner tool and heated it up about half way. you line up the headlight and the clear plastic. start in the center once aligned and very carefully around the edge your going to use the wood carver/burner tool and carefully melt the edges such that you tack the clear plastic to the headlight body. that will hold the clear plastic lenses on the headlight so you can go to the next step.

6) using a CA glue applicator (its a metal stick with different bobs at the end that uses surface tension to hold a drop of CA glue to the end.) to precisely place the CA glue on the edges. you can use the applicator to shmear the glue on the edges very carefully.
Do not use CA glue accelerator or you will crazy the clear plastic and ruin it. once you coat all the edges carefully and neatly you place the headlight to dry in front of a small fan this helps keep the CA glue from fogging the plastic as it cures.

7) with the headlight glued neatly you can go back and sand the edges if needed and paint as needed like a plastic model.

if you are going to install lighting with fiberoptic then you will want to test fit everything before starting with the clear sheet.

you will ruin a bunch of headlights before you get good at it to have a decent result. i ruined at least 5 headlights and countless clear plastic sheets before getting acceptable headlights and windshields.

keep that in mind you will be reprinting these body parts as there no good way to make them. if you have a SLA printer you can print a clear lenses in the shape of the headlight bucket and make gluing it a little easier. the reason you need to use a wood burner/carver is to tack down the sides of the lenses because its flat going over a compound surface so it does not want to stay on the surface of the headlight making it hard to work with. a printed SLA part will have the proper curve printed into it.

the windshield is harder in my opinion you have to get the frame mounted to the cockpit and cut the clear sheet and test fit it a bunch of times. this stabilizes the window frame in the correct shape. this is why i made it hardware bolted onto the top of the dashboard so its easy to remove and try again if you screw up without having to reprint everything because it was glued.

once you align the window you have to glue the edges down to the frame. its super messy no matter how careful you are. So that means you need to paint the window when its done to hide the glue.

once the window is glued in place and you happy with the fit go back and sand the edges of the glued areas to smooth it.

now you need to mask the outside of the window and use the shadow line that the top frame casts on the window from the inside out to draw a nice masking line. cut out the mask around the window mask the inside of the window and dash as needed, and use flat black or semi flat black to spray the window frame so you have a realistic finish.

on the headlights i went back and with a micro brush i painted the outside of the headlights and the edges of the clear plastic to hide the glue after sanding.


Image


your dealing with something that is closer to a static model then a R/C car from the design aspect thus there is no easy way to get a professional result its going to be a lot of work, a lot of mistakes and a lot of reprinting.

when i got through my green body i made changes and got better at making the white body. but i printed out multiple copies of parts because i knew i would mess them up.

of course if you damage the car driving it then you have to recreate these parts but i made the window frame at least easier to deal with.
the headlights you can snap off the damaged hood and reglue to the new one. I've had to do that a few times to reuse them rather then remake them :D

Image


it is doable but again it will take work and lots of mistakes and restarts.


by comparison the models from 3dsets are very assembly friendly because the clear parts install into channels and do not need to be glued. trying to design that for this application is really hard since it wouldn't look like the real car.

you will notice i did not install the side glass on the doors. first its REALLY hard to make them look correct without SLA printing the pieces and next it makes the doors really hard to open and makes access to the removable top really hard also. rather then installing them i left them off so it just looks like the windows are rolled down rather then trying to make them work. the windows are frameless just like the real car.

sometimes less is more.


another tip you will be changing gloves constantly during all this. because the gloves will get contaminated with glue and will ruin all your work. so get a big box of gloves.


i did this during the covid lockdown so i had time... :( :|

thaking
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2020 5:59 pm

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby thaking » Fri Nov 26, 2021 11:37 pm

Thanks :D

I have problems with front suspension parts, bearing hub as both for left and right holes are too big for bearing 4x4x8mm.
Holes are approx. 8.7mm :oops:

Can you please check it?

Image

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Mon Nov 29, 2021 8:20 pm

That is the wrong part if you are constructing my version.

see my manual page 16. in my version the wheel rims carry the bearings.

Otherwise if you are constructing the original version there are different bearing options for the front uprights.

my version is different then olle's

thaking
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2020 5:59 pm

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby thaking » Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:41 am

Ohh, I see - I used wrong rims (your version have bearing on outside) :D

There I have problem, as I don't know how to remove "fixed print support" without ruining right height of inner part of wheel - see picture below (same is for front and the rear):

Image

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Tue Nov 30, 2021 9:31 pm

they are meant to snap off.
put a plier inside to the cut line then move the plier quickly and it will snap.


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