iwannabetheguy1980's build

Build forum for the fully 3D-printed Koenigsegg Agera RS in scale 1/10
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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby admin » Wed May 26, 2021 6:33 am

Awesome work you've done to it! :) did you upgrade the hinge mechanism attachment for the rear hood? that's probably one of the things I was least happy with in the design, but couldn't really find a good alternative.

iwannabetheguy1980
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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Wed May 26, 2021 5:10 pm

No, I didn't touch any of the hinges themselves i didn't want to start down that road.
they work well enough.

What i find is:

If you will be running the car as a r/c a lot:

Tighten the bolts on the hinges and mounts so that the hoods bind then lower them and lock them into place.
this will keep the hoods from walking around as the chassis moves around during a run.

If you will be displaying it more as a model then just lightly tighten the hinge and hinge mounts so that the hoods will be easy to open.
this goes for the doors as well but less so.

All the hinges could do with a going over but dealing with STLs is too much a pain so good enough after all the door tweaking i did even after i posted in the mods forums.


As a R/C car i have it setup so that i can access the on-off switch mounted on the rear shock tower through the rear hood in front of the wing and i never have to open any of the hoods or doors. i just need to open and close the battery door since the lipo balancer cable is short. thus once i assembled everything i didn't have to open the hoods again and i tightened them down well. when i work on the chassis then i open the hoods and remove the bulkheads to get to the subframe.


-----

on the manual; Fusion 360 is proving to be Absolutely horrible at making the art i need.

I spent hours setting up a scene to get one or two screen captures and they suck!

i might just reshoot everything with my camera and make the manual from that because it will go ALOT faster.

it takes Days to make any progress and i hate it.
Image





I finished another set of 30A tires for the white chassis. hope to mount them and have another test run to make sure both cars run equally.

so far from the Rubber Urethane bottles i have gotten 10 pairs of tires out. i'm going to see if i can get another 4 out of the bottles before i run out. i ordered some more Urethane, first they sent me the wrong stuff and now i have to see if i get 2 more bottles of the correct hardness.

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Wed May 26, 2021 11:41 pm

Final test i completed the second complete set of 30A front and rear tires and both cars drive about the same now.
Chassis #1 ran stable and was easy to control.

nothing broke during the recent runs and i have not made any additional changes in a few days now.
So i'll just work on the assembly manual as i have time. I think it takes 5 times longer to document something verse just building it.

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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby admin » Thu May 27, 2021 4:48 pm

I know exactly what you mean with the manuals... that's why I haven't made more detailed instructions, it's a total pain...

I was browsing through motors the other day because I work on a bunch of RC scale boats, and it struck me that it would be fun to build a car with a water-cooled motor... :) Maybe it would work with a small radiator? :D

During your tests now, have you had any problems with the heating of the motor? I imagine that must become a problem at some point.

iwannabetheguy1980
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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Thu May 27, 2021 11:12 pm

Sure they make mini water cool systems for rc cars. think about the extra weight.

You will be carrying; a sealed motor sleeve, Coolant, a radiator, a motor to drive a pump and or a cooling fan with some kind of impeller and all the tubing. The main battery will be running another motor for the cooling system.

i made a water cooling system for my 3d printed jet boat using the main impeller to deflect a little bit of water through a tube into a cooling sleeve and then i had it dump behind the impeller so the system stayed pressurized and running so long as the boat was moving.

for a small scale R/C car is does not make much sense even most gas powered cars are air cooled.

During testing the only Heat issue was the pinion gear and i expected it to fail using only PLA. the motor shaft is transferring all the internal heat no surprise how hot it got. The trackStar ESC and sensored motor has a temperature sensor if the motor does get above 200F it goes into a limp mode.. i reprinted the Pinion from PC Blend which is good to 113C/235F before it softens where PLA will get soft sitting inside a car for less then an hour. in fact on one car i ran outside so long in the sun that the PLA dashboard did deform and melt.
Image

After testing i found the valve covers were holding a lot of heat from the motor so i redesigned them to be vented and that pulled more heat away.
Image

i have not had a failure in the gearbox outside of the original PLA pinion gear. the motor mounts i made appear to be holding and i made them from PLA as well.

I use a Tamiya motor spacer to help reduce the transfer of heat as well.
Image

with the changes i made redesigning the gearbox the heat issue for me has not occurred. I'm sure if you pushed the design hard you would start to have temperature problems.

on the 3dsets Trucks the gearboxes run VERY hot from the gear reduction on those i use fans and heatsinks for active cooling, but i am using 550 Brushed motors on those not brushless which run cooler. on the model 7 buggy i'm using the same Trackstar system as this the Koenigsegg and i have a PC Bleed pinion gear as spec'd by 3dsets in the manual.


if you like I can PM you a preview of the STLs with some quick instructions so you can try it out.

you will need some 2mm thick Rods to cut into 3 sizes:

2x M2 x 13.5mm long;
2x M2 x 15mm long,
4x M2 x 6mm long

Then for the 5mm Rod
1x M5 x 18.2mm long

the front new front and rear will bolt in place of what you have now so you don't have to change the body panels unless you want locking ones. the entire rear pod with CVDs will swap in on the same subframe and left and right stays so you would just need to pull the 4 bolts holding the gearbox to the subframe and the 2 M3 bolts for the stays , in addition to the 4 bolts holding the rear bumper on for what you have now and swap in the upgrade. you will also need 4 new bearings 10 x 15 x 4mm for the new bearing blocks and axles design.

i can send the whole STL package if you want but i'm light on a manual right now. i spent a few hours today and basically got very little done.

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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby admin » Sat May 29, 2021 7:57 am

Yea I wasn't thinking it as a performance boost, more a fun tech-geeky thing. :) I do the exact same as you mentioned on my Combat Boat 90. The first design I used small 3D-printed electric pumps for cooling water, but that was very hard to get to work well because air bubbles often got trapped in the inlets, despite them being placed under the aft section of the hull. This meant the pump started spinning in air and it was too weak to overcome the surface tension of the water. Of course I could have upgraded the pumps, but instead I placed passive inlets in the water jets behind the impellers and that worked well.

iwannabetheguy1980
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Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Sat May 29, 2021 6:31 pm

found a discrepancy in the front toe-in while going over stuff. the joy of a fusion360 crash must of caused it so now I'm running out some new steering arms to double check.

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Tue Jun 01, 2021 1:59 am

Had a nice run today making sure the corrected steering arms worked as intended.

I added front head lights.

Image
Image
nothing broke.

Worked on the manual some more, it is terrible.

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Thu Jun 03, 2021 4:34 pm

I'm just getting more and more aggravated with fusion 360 as far as a manual is concerned.

constant crashes takes hours to setup a scene you have to convert everything to a component to try and animate it.

i literally gave up. i'm just going to quickly slap this thing together and call it a day and start posting the conversion.

i can see why people export from fusion 360 as a STEP/STP and then use sketchup to make manuals.

i wasted two weeks on this basically and what i came up with is just garbage.

so what i post is not a complete model you will have to import the original STLs to complete everything. it only covers the changes i made.

since it is modular and i made sure nothing intermingles between the mechanicals of the chassis and the body you could just reprint the mechanicals you want and bolt them to your existing but you will want to print the new locking body panels because running the new mechanicals with the old body parts will make you realize you just need to redo the whole thing.

i figure i'll put a few more hours into the manual and then start putting a tire manual together since you will want to cast your own tires for this project and really its not bad doing it yourself.

iwannabetheguy1980
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2021 2:33 am

Re: iwannabetheguy1980's build

Postby iwannabetheguy1980 » Sat Jun 05, 2021 2:30 am

Amazing I actually found another corrupted STL as i was working on the manual.

during a fusion 360 crash it introduced a rotation to a finished STL. so frustrating.


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