Building instructions

Forum about the OS-Railway project available on Thingiverse. Here you can ask questions, look at building pictures, share ideas, pictures and STL's.
Hodorious
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2020 8:21 am

Building instructions

Postby Hodorious » Wed Sep 30, 2020 8:23 am

Hi!
Amazing project!
I just got all the parts ready for assembly and im having some issues putting everything together, are there any building instruction videos aviable? Or written instructions?

Best Regards Johan

admin
Site Admin
Posts: 409
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:46 pm

Re: Building instructions

Postby admin » Thu Oct 01, 2020 8:47 pm

Hi,

No, not more than what is written on the Thingiverse pages. I have for a long time been thinking of making instruction videos but it's really hard to find time for that. What parts is it you have issues with?

Hodorious
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2020 8:21 am

Re: Building instructions

Postby Hodorious » Fri Oct 02, 2020 6:46 am

Im about to start on the electronics on the Freight train. Kinda green when it comes to electronics :lol:

admin
Site Admin
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Re: Building instructions

Postby admin » Mon Oct 12, 2020 6:15 pm

Ok, if you haven't used Arduino before I suggest you check out some youtube tutorials on getting started, there are lots of basic tutorials just to run the "Blinky" app to toggle an LED. (there are an on-board LED on the NodeMCU so I think you can run the Blinky without connecting anything.)

florint
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2020 6:56 am

Re: Building instructions

Postby florint » Tue Oct 20, 2020 2:35 am

Can somebody post some instructions on how to assembly the front bogie for the 39-inspired locomotive? Also, how do you make a non-motorized version of the aft bogie? I only saw instructions/pictures for the motorized version of the bogie.

Many thanks for making this, it looks awesome. I printed everything but I don't know how to assemble these bogies... :-(

admin
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Re: Building instructions

Postby admin » Tue Oct 20, 2020 9:39 am

Hi,
gp38-front-bogie.JPG
gp38-front-bogie.JPG (110.36 KiB) Viewed 3308 times
Don't be afraid to just try. :) The front bogie is basically a copy of the rear but with the gearbox removed. Instead of a ball joint, there's a "box" part in the middle that connects it to the chassis. Only thing to keep in mind here is not to tighten the screws as this box needs to be able to move to allow the bogie to turn and tilt.

This explode should explain the motorized bogie assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-4TSTSmNh4

florint
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Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2020 6:56 am

Re: Building instructions

Postby florint » Tue Oct 20, 2020 8:32 pm

Many many thanks Olle for the picture, it surely helps! I don't have as much experience with models and when things are not obvious I tend to question what I'm doing...

Some additional questions I have:

1. The slot in the bogie frame where the wheel axle goes doesn't have any notch or anything to stop the axle from coming out. I was expecting that it will "click" into that slot, but it's U-shaped so it can come easily in ... and out. What stops the wheels to come off when my child will pick the train up? Am I supposed to glue the carbon fiber axle to the bogie? (That would not be nice because I would like to switch the wheels to the grooved model when I'll upgrade to motorized bogie).

2. There isn't any gap between the wheels and the bogie frame. When I put the spacer together with the wheels they can barely get in that space (clearance is 37mm, the wheels and the spacers are almost 38mm). I can sand the spacer a bit to make it more room but am I supposed to? This is what I'm talking about me being unsure if this is how things are supposed to be or me doing something silly...

3. The holes in the wheels and the spacers are smaller than 3mm (the carbon rods don't fit in there, it's more like 2.5 mm). Is this an artifact of my printer (Prusa Mini) or am I supposed to drill them?

4. The handrail: it attaches to both the bottom frame AND the side of the cabin/main body. You suggested using CA to secure it. The problem is that if I do that I won't be able to separate the frame and the body anymore, would I (since the rail ties the two together). I was thinking of making this non-motorized initially and upgrade it later, but if I glue this handrail I'll have to rip it off every time I separate the two parts to get inside.

I'm sure I'll probably have more questions as I go along. Thank you for your patience and guidance!

Florin

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nitewatchman
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2018 1:10 am

Re: Building instructions

Postby nitewatchman » Wed Oct 21, 2020 1:04 am

This is very prototypical. In North American railroads there is also nothing that retains the bogies or trucks to the car or the axles and wheels in the trucks. Initially there are small retaining clips but these quickly vibrate loose and fall to the road bed. The clips can usually be found by the dozens around Diamond Crossings where shock and vibrations are quite high.

For model railroads and small hands however this is not a good plan. A small keeper under the axle should suffice.

gary

admin
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Re: Building instructions

Postby admin » Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:43 pm

Hi,

Good questions! It's so easy to get home-blind with ones own designs and way of thinking! :) There is definately some lines to straighten out here!

1. Regarding the slot, it seems that you forgot about the ball bearings? those grooves in the bogie are designed to be press-fit for the ball bearings! Usually with most printers, the space is narrower and requires quite substantial force in order to press the bearings in place. so on none of my trains there has never been any case where it's even remotely close to a shaft coming out by itself.
ball bearings.JPG
ball bearings.JPG (144.44 KiB) Viewed 3298 times
2. There is supposed to be a gap of 0,5mm between each wheel and the bogie frame. I normally cut the shaft so that its length actually prevents the wheels from touching the frame, and this is one thing you remind me that I have to explain! thanks! :)
wheels-n-shaft.JPG
wheels-n-shaft.JPG (393.53 KiB) Viewed 3298 times
3. Yes, that is usually a consequence of the printer settings. I usually use a 3mm drill bit to drill up the hole to 3mm. You can even use a 3,2mm drill bit if you fell it's hard to get the right size. PLA in particular has a tendency to be very tough to drill. That is actually also a good property in other ways because if you don't have any ball bearings, you can actually print one in PLA that has a hole in it that is loose enough to permit the shaft to rotate freely, and the PLA is so tough that a bearing like this will actually lasts surprisingly long! some of my cars and locomotives actually use this method because I ran out of ball bearings. Only real downside is that the rolling resistance is a bit higher, especially wiht a lot of weight on it. Ball Bearings run easy even with heavy load.

4. There is no pre-defined way, this is DIY so it is up to you. either you wait with installing the grab rail, or just try to glue it to the chassis only. It will probably look good enough anyway. But it is again a good point that I should explain. :)

Gary: I didn't know that! with full scale obviously the need for retaining is less, but parts just dropping down doesn't really sound ideal. :S anyway as you see above it's not an issue in this case. :) I've taken out the bearings and pushed them in place multiple times and the space is still tight enough to retain the bearings securely.

florint
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2020 6:56 am

Re: Building instructions

Postby florint » Thu Oct 22, 2020 8:46 pm

Olle, many many thanks for answering my questions promptly and with such great detail! Indeed I forgot about the ball bearings! Things make more sense now! I hope to complete this shortly and will post a picture of my build!


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